Ornament Nouveau - Spirit of Blue

Holthinrichs Watches Ornament Nouveau - Spirit of Blue

Background:

“I want people to experience the emotional sensations that architecture can evoke through its spatial, structural and artisanal complexity: architecture on the wrist.” 

Michiel Holthinrichs

Holthinrichs Watches is founded by Dutch architect Michiel Holthinrichs. Ever since Michiel started the brand in 2016, it has been Michiel’s dream to create an integral design without concessions, meaning that every component has to work together and needs to follow the same strong concept, down to the smallest details. Because a design is only truly successful when all components complement each other, together forming one ultimate three-dimensional wrist sculpture. 

Spirit of Blue, the first limited series of Ornament Nouveau features anodized blue elements, a hint to the colour of our town of origins, Delft, The Netherlands. 

The inspiration for the expressive sculptural design of the ORNAMENT NOUVEAU is drawn from Art Nouveau and Early Modernist architecture and only made into reality by our specialist knowledge in 3D metal printing and complex machining. It features a spectacular three-dimensional stainless steel case that is realized using modern 3D metal binder jetting technology, combined with CNC machining and manual finishing. According to our modernist concept of “Horlogerie Brut” (a hint to Le Corbusier’s Béton Brut), specific parts of the case are deliberately left unfinished to showcase the process of the making as part of the aesthetic of the design. 

First Dutch Manufacture Movement. 

ORNAMENT NOUVEAU features our first in-house calibre, which is the first Dutch wristwatch movement to be produced in series. A milestone for our country. It is a double barrel in series, free-sprung inertia balance wheel mechanism that is fully designed in-house consisting of 171 parts in total. This includes bridges manufactured out of 3D milled stainless steel and a fully three dimensional sapphire balance bridge.

Manufacturing of the components.

Prototype manufacturing takes place in our atelier, as well as the manufacturing of plate-springs, levers takes, dial components, full assembly and manual finishing up to haute horlogerie standards. The static parts (mainplate, bridges (stainless steel), axles, fittings etc are manufactured at our precision engineering production partner company in Barendrecht (The Netherlands), and specialist suppliers in Switzerland for the jewels, springs as well as gears and pinions for the time being (manufacturing of these latter parts is planned in The Netherlands as well). 

Design of the movement. 

The movement, though simple in its functioning - telling only hours and minutes - is complex in its execution. While only 4mm thick, it offers maximal three-dimensionality through complex machining and specific manual finishing. The mainplate of the movement consists of a double concave shape, creating a strong optical three-dimensional effect empowered by heavy textured diamond-hammering and white rhodium plating. 

From the sides of the mainplate, attached with hidden screws, organically shaped stainless steel bridges are cantilevered above the center of the movement. Each executed as miniature sculptures with multiple interacting three-dimensional surfaces and manually finished with heavy contrasting textures and powerful anglage for maximal depth. 

The star of the show is our in-house developed variable inertia balance wheel held in place in an exceptional three-dimensional glass bridge (called the “Holthinbridge”). The balance wheel itself is shaped as an dynamically openworked structure to reflecting the organic design of the timepiece. 

Eclipse UV-sensitive dial. 

First tested and developed in 2017 with Essilor glasses. Now implemented in Ornament Nouveau as a double domed crystal dial that transitions from transparent to dark in UV light. Protecting the skeleton movement from damaging UV light, as well as providing a playful aspect to the watch. Outside of direct UV lighting, one can see the beautiful sculptural movement. While in the sun, the watch turns into a very classical timepiece. 

A unique hornback strap. 

Expressively for ORNAMENT NOUVEAU, the strap is made out of a very difficult to progress hornback alligator. The large bone-like scales beautifully complement the three-dimensionality of the timepiece. 

Presentation.

Optionally, and uniquely for this timepiece, we created a large 3D printed stainless steel artwork that is unlike any other watch presentation: a light openworked sculpture placed in a glass dome, into which the watch can be exhibited. The sculpture is available for both clients and retailers, in addition to the timepiece. 

Availability.

Our atelier only has capacity for a maximum of 8 timepieces per year, limiting our first model “Spirit of Blue” to 8 pieces in total. Orders are open as per official publication (28 March 2025).

Holthinrichs Watches background: 

We at Holthinrichs Watches create watches that are unique in the world. Our approach to watch design through an architectural perspective leads to complex structural shapes and integrated design and the mastery of high-tech 3D manufacturing. Over the years, we have become specialists in additive manufacturing and manual finishing, allowing us to create integral designed “haute horlogerie” with unprecedented architectural structures and a high-end manual finishing.

Our goal is to develop a fully equipped factory that is also designed to accommodate guests to experience the Holthinrichs Watches manufacture, its timepieces, art and inspiration. A stronghold for innovation and creativity, and a place that defines the future of Dutch watchmaking. It can be regarded as an “Ecosystem”, a place or hub that is self-sufficient and open to short or long stay creatives and makers, creative collaborations and social events. It will also be a place where people get educated, trained in specific expertises, delivering skilled craftsmen and developing knowledge. It is important to mention this longer term vision, as this is Michiel’s dream and vision, influencing many strategic decisions.