Friedrich III Manufaktur Edition

Lang & Heyne – Friedrich III Manufaktur Edition

A mechanical masterpiece – deliberately conceived

The Friedrich III Manufaktur Edition represents technical consistency shaped by artisanal clarity. It merges the classical traditions of Saxon watchmaking with an uncompromising commitment to quality – embodied in a timepiece that is limited to five pieces worldwide. Engravings such as “FIII - ME” and “One of 5” emphasize this intentionally chosen exclusivity.

Concept and Philosophy

The concept of the Friedrich III Manufaktur Edition is based on the principle of evolving historical constructions in both function and form. The hinged lid on the back, inspired by the Savonnette principle of historical pocket watches, is turned from solid material and held securely in place by a specially developed closing spring. Opening the back is a deliberate gesture – revealing the finely finished movement through an additional sapphire crystal back.

The exterior of the cover can be personalized upon request – with initials, symbols, or meaningful engravings. This option underscores the intention to create not only a timepiece, but a lasting personal object.

Movement & Technical Foundation

At the heart of the watch beats Caliber VI - a classic hand-wound movement developed entirely in Dresden with a diameter of 33.5 mm, a height of 4.9 mm and a frequency of 18,000 semi-oscillations per hour. The power reserve is 55 hours.

The movement architecture is based on the Saxon school, but deliberately dispenses with the traditional three-quarter plate. Instead, free-standing bridges provide a view of the finely decorated gear train with solid rose gold wheels. All frame parts are rhodium-plated. The jewels are made of colorless sapphire. The precisely beveled inner angles on the bridge contours are hand-angled – a sophisticated detail that exemplifies both technical mastery and aesthetic precision.

The heat-tempered violet screws are made entirely by hand on the bluing plate - without chemical additives or electronically regulated ovens. Due to differences in surface mass and geometry, the screws absorb heat differently, resulting in subtle nuances in color. After the tempering process, they are pre-sorted by hand according to color. Slight variations in tone are deliberately retained and emphasize the individual character of each piece.

Manufacture Depth & Material Logic

More than 90% of movement components are produced in-house. Each part is individually beveled by hand – a tangible expression of fine mechanical care. The selection and combination of materials used does not follow aesthetic preferences, but clear functional principles.

The gear train wheels are made of solid, non-galvanized rose gold. This decision specifically avoids the risk of abrasion caused by coatings, especially within gear teeth. Compared to conventional brass, rose gold offers greater hardness, better long-term stability and oxidation-free behavior.

The mainspring barrel is also manufactured according to this principle: The barrel and cover are made of Ecobrass, a lead-free high-performance brass that requires no additional gold plating. The deliberate avoidance of galvanic coating avoids potential residues in the movement and minimizes rejection rates during manufacture – a rarely upheld standard in pursuit of long-term reliability.

AMAflex is used in the escapement - an amagnetic, wear-resistant material that is clearly superior to the gold components used in the past thanks to its mechanical properties.

Dial & Hands

The two-part dial is crafted in black enamel on white gold using the Champlevé technique. Roman numerals are printed via tampography using a two-component lacquer specially formulated to bond reliably to enamel surfaces. The result is a highly precise and visually deep surface. The dial is complemented by hand-engraved Louis XV hands made of steel.

Case & Wearing Experience

The stainless steel case measures 39.2 mm in diameter and 11.65 mm in height (including the hinged cover). It combines classical proportions with technical functionality. The glazed case back is protected by the solid hinged lid. An onion crown with an onyx cabochon and a reptile leather strap with a pin buckle round off the tactile experience. The optional engraving on the outside of the lid gives each watch a personal, lasting touch.

Conclusion

The Friedrich III Manufaktur Edition is more than just a classic timepiece. It is an expression of decelerated mechanics, technical consistency and a design philosophy that favors substance over surface. For collectors, it is an authentic testimony to genuine craftsmanship - for new discoverers, an invitation to rediscover time as an expression of craftsmanship, craftsmanship, conviction and heritage.