Power reserve: 40 h, 21600 variations / hours
The heritage British watch brand Fears has added a third watch to its Brunswick family: the Brunswick Salmon. Celebrating its 175th anniversary this year, Fears hand build their watches in the UK, carefully designing each component to create a modern interpretation of the traditional, elegantly understated, Fears watch.
The Brunswick Salmon dial features a distinctive shade of Copper Salmon, made from coatings of true copper and 18ct rose gold, which combine to create a hue inspired by the copper-dialled Fears watches of the 1950s. The dial is hand brushed, giving each watchface its own unique vertical-grained finish which beautifully accentuates the depth of the genuine metal coatings.
The dial surface is adorned by extra tall (0.5mm) numerals in a bespoke Fears design inspired by our typography archives. Each appliqué numeral is milled, diamond-polished, sandblasted, and coated in anthracite, a natural hard coal material which reveals different tones in the light.
The distinctive 'Fears'-shaped hands are inspired by the hands used on Fears watches from the 1930s to the 1950s. Made in-house, hand polished, and finished by a watchmaker, these hands have a depth and detail not found in mass-produced, stamped watch hands.
Each set of hands is subtly skeletonised before being thermally blued by a flame. This traditional method of thermally hardening the steel results in a blue unique to each Brunswick, from almost black to electric blue in the light.
The Brunswick Salmon's elegant 38mm cushion-shaped case takes its inspiration from a gentleman’s watch from the Fears archives first made in 1924. With no flat surfaces, its glancing curves catch the light brilliantly. Machined from 316L stainless steel in Germany, the depth of the polish reflects the skill of the operator, resulting in a deep lustre usually reserved for precious metals.
The curvaceous case is complemented by a traditional ‘onion’-shaped winding crown. Made in Switzerland, the crown’s grooves catch the light, adding a touch of radiance to the edge of the case.
The Brunswick Salmon is powered by a Swiss made, manual winding ETA 7001 movement. Each new movement is serviced and finished in the British workshop with Côtes de Genève striping and Rhodium plating. Once the movement has been re-assembled and thoroughly tested, it receives Fears’ ‘Golden Pipette’, which is handmade and applied to the bridge. Each Fears watch undergoes 500 hours of time-testing before it is personally signed off by the Managing Director.
Each Brunswick Salmon is paired with a handmade Bristol Leather strap. This premium strap is made from UK-sourced calf leather that has been vegetable tanned in Britain’s oldest vegetable tannery, Bristol’s Thomas Ware & Sons (the same tannery Fears used in the 1920s).