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Julien Coudray 1518

Manufactura 1528 platinum

Case
Platinium
Bracelet strap
Leather
Buckle
Pin buckle
Waterproofness
50 m
Size
ø 39 mm
Thickness
9.85 mm
Movement
Manual-winding mechanical
Power reserve: 55 h, 28800 variations / hours
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds
Reference
1528-PT
Year
2013
Collection
Manufactura 1528 / 28-piece limited series
Price excl.VAT
180'000 CHF
Description

 
This model aims to reinvent a classic: a «three-hands» manual winding watch indicating the hour, minute and seconds. These are supplemented by an uncommon function: a service indicator. In a discreet window at 12 o’clock, the enamelled gold oil drop symbol will appear after four years in operation, when the watch must be serviced.
 
The fully redesigned movement is equipped with an exclusive escapement – developed, made and set in-house – which frequency (28,800 vibrations/hour) makes for high precision. Each of the main movement parts is machined from 18ct solid gold (of three different grades: 2N yellow, 5N red and Pd125 white) and from solid Pt 950 platinum, a material never previously worked in this way in the field of watchmaking. All these components are hand-decorated, as are the bridges visible via the sapphire case-back, the finely hand-engraved pattern on which is inspired by the repertoire of the Renaissance decorative arts.
 
Creating a “grand feu” enamel watch dial demands years of observation, learning and experience under master-enamellers specialised in watchmaking. The apparent unruliness of this fascinating material is bit by bit overcome by expertise, with failures becoming setbacks and then success. Made from white and black traditional “grand feu” enamel, this dial is a modern interpretation of
Renaissance church bell tower clocks, given a timeless unalterable quality by firing.
 
In-house mechanical movement made from PT950 solid platinum (manufacturing process protected by several patents), hand- wound, hand-engraved and hand-decorated, enameled 18ct gold service indicator, power reserve of more than 55 hours, 34 jewels.
Case made from solid platinum 39mm/9.85mm, sapphire crystal and case-back with anti-reflection coating, solid 18ct Pd125 white gold collar.
 
Functions: hour, minutes, centre seconds, 4-year service indicator at 12 o’clock. In a discreet window at 12 o'clock, an enamelled gold oil drop symbol will appear after four years in operation, when the watch must be serviced.
 
13-part dial made from enamelled solid 18ct Pd125 white gold, traditional « grand feu » black and white enamelled domed cartouches.
 
Blued hands. Colour obtained with no chemical treatment neither lacquer.
 
Hand-stitched dark blue alligator strap lined with alligator. PT950 solid platinum buckle with engraved pictogram.
 
95 % of the watch is made from 1.5 kilogram of PT950 solid platinum: movement, case, crown and buckle.
 
No chemical treatment neither lacquer.