The Urban Jürgensen 1741 PT watch was inspired by the centuries of fine watchmaking using grenage dial techniques, and with a desire to provide a perpetual calendar watch with a central second – which shows life at a glance, versus the usual small seconds indicators on such watches. The intention is to elevate a coherent feel of the piece by combining the roundness and sensual feel of the teardrop lugs, the modern voluptuous case and connecting these exterior features with the dial through use of highly hand crafted pillow shaped cabochon numbers. Lastly the desire was to further heighten the visibility of handmade craft by hand making the grenage dial from a solid fine silver dial plate. Apart from the cabochon numbers, all other dial indications are done by engraving, with hand filled lacquer that is manually flat polished before the dial is finished by hand grenage. This combination strikes a unique subtle balance that makes the watch a paragon of refined choices in classic watch making only enhanced by closer study of the finite details.
Description of the watch
Case: 41mm case with a height of 12.70 mm .950 Platinum made in 3 pieces with convex middle case and individually soldered teardrop lugs.
Concave bezel, domed sapphire crystal and screw back with flat sapphire crystal. Water-resistant to 30m.
Dial: The Urban Jürgensen dial combines meticulous traditional hand craft work with advanced techniques of high grade modern dial making.
Created as a one-piece solid silver, the Reference 1741 PT dial is 32.50mm in diameter and 0.50mm thick.
A final cut solid fine silver dial is engraved with the selected indexes, numerals and texts. The ultra-shallow engravings are hand filled with a lacquer, and the surplus hardened material then polished off by use of increasingly fine diamond paper.
The dial grenage layer is then built by manually treating and brushing a secret mix of silver powder, salt and other ingredients on to the blank silver dial surface. By electro chemical process the dial face builds up with pearled effect a unique silvered surface with incredible depth and granularity.
The dial surface is achieved by a process that is entirely hand made. This ensures every dial is unique, and every watch will therefore have its own personality and character.
Hands: The diamond-finished hands that require numerous hours of fine workmanship are another key feature of Urban Jürgensen timepieces. The eye of the hour hand is a concentrically polished solid gold insert, held in place by the sheer accuracy of the fit. The hands are polished to a perfect mirror gloss, and thermally blued afterwards.