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D. Candaux

D6 Black Phantom Carbon

Case material
Carbon
Bracelet strap
Rubber
Buckle
Titane velcro
Dial finish
Super Luminova and Gold
Water resistance
50 m
Size
ø 44 mm
Thickness
12.6 mm
Movement
Manual-winding mechanical
Power reserve: 55 h, 21600 variations / hours
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Power reserve, Tourbillon
Bi-Plan Tourbillon / Magic crown
Reference
Black Phantom
Market launch date
04.2020
Collection
Black Phantom / 8-pieces limited series
Price incl. VAT
289'000 CHF
Description

Candaux: DC6-Black PhantomThe reinterpretation of a classic

The new  DC6-Black Phantom“cal.1740” handmade by the independent watchmaker David Candaux for Baselworld 2019, represents his contemporary reinterpretation of the classic half-hunter pocket watch form as it was used in the stressful, active environments found on land and the seven seas. 

David’s specific vision were the forms found on antique captain’s watches, as well as many seafaring instruments such as compasses, wherein the viewing area, partially encased in metal, only allowed portholes for viewing the required indications. In this manner, the half hunter form provided excellent protection of the glass, hands and movement from shocks under extreme conditions.

This tourbillon creation by David Candaux taps into the historical period when horology was still perceived as a major science and watchmaking fell under the realm of mathematics, philosophy, and astronomy. This was an era when the quest for accurate timekeeping occupied the minds of the greatest inventors of European civilization. The DC 6 Solstice Titanium Half Hunter “1740” pays homage to these precision instruments of the past, timepieces that were in use by the explorers and master mariners of the 18th and 19th centuries. A novelty of the time, these highly accurate timepieces allowed ship’s captains to literally and physically carry the time of their departure harbor with them, and therefore calculate the longitude of their location at sea easily without requiring star-gazing, ephemerides, astronomical tables, and several hours of navigational calculations.

With this history at hand, the DC6-Black Phantom goes a step further, representing a more radical stylistic interpretation and technical advancement in comparison to the classic historical half- hunter concept; simultaneously it represents a more futuristic development to the first models of the present collection.

New visual impulses The first visual aspect one notices is the incredibly finely executed, complex decoration of the front face of the watchcase. It has been given a unique, engine-turned guilloche pattern named Pointe du Risoux that deliberately recalls the patterns of the local Risoux fir tree forest that surrounds the Candaux atelier. Created as a contemporary approach to antique guilloche traditions, this pattern was not only meant to be visually inspirational; it was also deliberately designed to invite the user to sensually engage with its complex surface, adding another level of interaction between the timepiece and its owner. With a subtle and completely contemporary touch, this guilloche patterned front cover has been created in natural titanium. This precious metal is one of David’s favorites due to its subtle glow and introverted elegance.

Asymmetrical display Set into this magnificently adorned front cover of guilloche finished 18K white gold, the timekeeping indications and open view of the tourbillon have been placed under two tiny spherical, convex shaped portholes of specially machined sapphire glass, with the power reserve situated under a small, separate arch of sapphire glass at the top edge of the case front.

The hours and minutes are read on a spherical, convex micro-dial under the rightmost sapphire dome with its two curving hands of hand finished and blued steel that precisely follow the curving dial’s exact form. The fully visible, twice-inclined flying tourbillon is situated under the sapphire dome on the left, providing running seconds via a blued index placed on the edge of the tourbillon cage. The mesmerizing beauty of the fully visible, patented and tilted tourbillon echoes the display of the three-dimensional hours and minutes window. It perfectly and harmoniously balances the symmetry of the front, directly evoking the half hunter timepieces and marine compasses of previous centuries. In addition to these details, the entire front of the DC6-Black Phantom “1740” has been gently and almost imperceptibly inclined; standing slightly higher in the case at the 12 o’clock position and lower towards 6 o’clock. This unusually positioned bezel comfortably enhances reading the time, thus providing an optimized field of view for the user. Like the original 1740 model, the DC6-Black Phantom is also fitted at 6 o’clock with the unique retractable crown, for which David Candaux has received two patents.

MOVEMENT DETAILS

The David Candaux inclined Bi-plan Tourbillon

The 60-seconds flying tourbillon has been designed using a ceramic ball bearing inclined at 3 degrees from the horizontal. Within another construction inside the tourbillon’s grade-5 titanium cage, the balance has been placed in a position with another 30 degrees inclination, hence the name ‘bi-plan’ flying tourbillon. 

The result provides a definitive improvement on the standard, horizontally orientated tourbillon construction found in wristwatches today. The original tourbillon design, as used in pocket watches, was conceived for dealing with the forces of gravity from mainly vertical positions in waistcoat pockets. The situation today is totally different: as used in wristwatches, the tourbillon must adjust to the angles and movements of our contemporary lifestyle and daily life, as experienced on the human wrist and all of its tilted or angular positions - while sitting, reading, walking, running, and/or having arms on desk when behind the computer. 

David Candaux’s bi-plan flying tourbillon was created in such a way as to ensure a continual change in position of the cage and of the regulating organ in relation to these types of wrist positions people normally use in daily life, thus optimizing its capacity to compensate the influence of gravity that could affect chronometric results. Following the best practices possible, the curve of the spiral has been given a Breguet overcoil ending in a Phillips terminal curve, thus optimizing the balance spring’s poise and functionality, with a resultant lower friction on the balance staff in every vertical position. The spiral extremity of the spring is maintained by a stud specially developed for this timepiece in order to guarantee reliable, long-term fixation. Details like these ensure the optimal long-term functioning of the movement and guarantee the quality of chronometric results.

Movement and case in Carbone  With a view towards long-term perfection and durability, this meterial is one of David’s favorites due to its superlative, high strength/hardness ratio, and its immutable characteristics combined with lightness. The extreme tensile strength of titanium makes all the traditional milling process as well as hand finishing operations for the case and movement parts such as polishing, satin-finishing, brushing and “anglage” much more time consuming, costly, and difficult to achieve. Furthermore, the milling operations to create these parts must be executed using special multi-axis machines fitted with fire extinguishers, since the titanium debris created during the cutting process can become flammable.

Balance The aerodynamically designed balance wheel in beryllium copper (CuBe2), is fitted with variable inertia adjustment thanks to four 18K gold screws and a load screw also in beryllium copper, which can be adjusted by the watchmaker during assembly and timing control. The modification of the balance wheel’s inertia in this manner, allows the watchmaker to speed up or slow down the balance wheel’s beat, and thus regulate the timepiece’s accurate running, as well as fixate its ideal parameters for longterm stability. The use of variable inertia adjustment for the balance eliminates the need for a moveable index to adjust the balance spring, which can, under certain conditions, alter its position after the watch receives a shock or impact.

Inclined Caliber Construction  The DC6-Black Phantom 1740 caliber has been entirely designed in house by David Candaux, a rare case in contemporary Swiss watchmaking. This innovative movement, protected by several patents, answers mechanically to the philosophy behind the 1740 collection with its asymmetrical approach to aesthetics and the art of chronometry. The technical imperatives joined to the secret retractable crown, mean that the entire gear train and bridges have been inclined at 3 degrees in relation to the horizontal in order to accommodate it. Due to the variation of the position of the bridges towards each other, each bridge is inclined at 3 degrees from each other. Thus, the view of the movement’s interior surface is no longer uniformly horizontal but shows a cascading effect. As a result, this innovative constructional feature has the added benefit of accentuating the finishing of all the individual movement parts, amplifying each ray of light reflecting off its surface.

Furthermore, these sparkling reflections also highlight the “Côtes du Solliat”, a new type of decoration elaborated by David Candaux. Due to their notable width, and therefore demanding to create, each single band mastered by skillful hands gives the subtle impression of being composed of three separate  bands. All the 23 inner angles and edges of the tourbillon movement are hand finished with traditionally executed “anglage”, a typical trademark of the Vallée du Joux’s traditional watchmaking culture, making the perfect execution of the movement all the more difficult to achieve.

Escapement The escapement has also been fully developed and designed by David Candaux. His respect for history led him to use the old escapement centering from the Vallée de Joux tradition. This type of centering is based on non-equidistant points of axial reference, unlike those developed for contemporary or industrially produced escapements that are mainly based on equidistant points of reference. Such a non-equidistant geometry improves escapement efficiency and imparts a refined, aesthetic and practical shape to the anchor’s pallet jewels. The different entrance and exit degrees of lift imparted by this system also guarantee the flow of optimal impulse energy to the balance wheel. Last but not least, a new, optimized geometry for the escapement wheel teeth also improve the global efficiency of the escapement mechanism.

Wheels and pinions In total, the movement of the DC6-Black Phantom comprises 287 individual components, each of which is finished respecting the most demanding standards of traditional high-end watchmaking. In this way, the wheels comply with the highest quality requirements and are chamfered, beveled and circular-grained on both sides. As for the pinions, they are polished on a wooden grinding wheel and given a groove just behind the pivot. This historical technique ensures that the lubricating oil remains in place.

Engraved technical specifications In order to ensure the long-term continuity of the movement in the centuries to come, all the technical specifications required to restore or service the caliber have been micro-engraved on the flank of the grade-5 titanium baseplate for future generations. The specifications of the regulating organ, its CGS number (height of the blade of the balance-spring), its inertia, the lift angle and the quality indicator can be found engraved in relief on the fixed second wheel. 

It is clear that the DC 6 Solstice Titanium represents a uniquely personal vision of contemporary Haute Horlogerie by David Candaux, which combines both patrimony and creativity. The result is a horological state-of-the-art, ultimate model of 21st century mechanical watchmaking. These are timepieces that retain all of the quality and unique character of the traditional watchmaking arts as practiced in the Vallée du Joux by past generations, created in the present, and destined for the future.

CHRONOMETRY 

Inclined bi-plan tourbillon The 60-seconds flying tourbillon is using a ceramic ball-bearing inclined by 3 degrees. Inside the tourbillon’s grade-5 titanium cage, the balance wheel has been placed in a position with another 30 degrees inclination, hence the name ‘bi-plan’ flying tourbillon. The inclined bi-plan tourbillon improves the chronometry, compared to the horizontal tourbillon. This tourbillon design improved the chronometry of pocket watches, maintained vertically in waistcoat pockets. Today, the tourbillon must bear with the angles and movements of the contemporary wear on the wrist. D. Candaux’s bi-plan flying tourbillon ensures a continual change of position of the cage and of the regulating organ bringing much better chronometric accuracy. 

Escapement Fully developed and designed by David Candaux. He reinvented the ancient escapement centering from the Vallée de Joux based on non-equidistant points of axial reference, unlike those industrially produced today. Such a non-equidistant geometry improves escapement efficiency and results into a refined, aesthetic and practical shape to the anchor’s pallet jewels. The different entrance and exit degrees of lift imparted by this system guarantees the flow of optimal impulse energy to the balance wheel. A new, optimized geometry for the escapement wheel teeth also improves the global efficiency of the escapement mechanism.

Balance Spring Built with a Breguet shape ended by a Phillips terminal curve, it optimizes the balance spring’s poise and functionality, resulting in a lower friction on the balance staff in every vertical position. The stud is specially developed to maintain the spiral extremity of the spring in order to guarantee reliable, longterm fixation. 

Balance Wheel  Aerodynamically designed balance wheel in beryllium copper (CuBe2). Fitted with a variable inertia adjustment with four gold adjusting screws, which can be adjusted by the watchmaker during assembly and timing control, and four load screw in beryllium copper. The use of variable inertia adjustment for the balance eliminates the need for a moveable index to adjust the balance spring, which can, under certain conditions, alter its position after the watch receives a shock or impact.

Power Reserve 55 hours thanks to a double barrel system that maintains continuous and stable torque. With a chronometry certified, it guarantees a power supply of indicated by a gauge at 12 o’clock, with a patented camshaft system.

FINISHINGS 

Movement The caliber 1740 of DC6-Black Phantom comprises 287 individual components, each of which is finished respecting the most demanding standards of traditional high-end watchmaking. All the 23 inner angles and edges of the movement are hand finished with traditional chamfering, a typical expertise of the Vallée de Joux’s traditional watchmaking culture. 

Titanium and steel plate and bridges With the exception of the small steel bridge, all plates and bridges are made of natural titanium or in steel. Grade 5 titanium is not treated besides the additional polished and brushed decorations, polished angles, brushed or drawn flanks, circular graining, snailing, and “Côtes du Solliat”. The semi-brilliant polished sinks rubies are held in gold bezels in order to vary the color spectrum and fluidizes the activity of the gears. The bridges in steel are natural and mirror-polished. 

Wheels comply with the highest quality requirements and are chamfered, beveled and  circulargrained on both sides. 

Pinions are polished on a wooden grinding wheel and given a groove just behind the pivot. This ancient technique ensures that the lubricating oil remains in place.

Engraved technical specifications that would be required to restore or service the calibre have been micro-engraved on the flank of the grade-5 titanium plate for future generations. They include:  Specifications of the regulating organ • Its CGS number (specifications of the balance-spring) • Its inertia • The lift angle and the quality indicator are engraved in relief on the fixed second wheel. 

The entire front of the DC6-Black Phantom has been gently and almost imperceptibly inclined; standing slightly higher in the case at the 12 o’clock position and lower towards 6 o’clock. This unusually positioned bezel comfortably enhances reading the time, thus providing an optimized field of view for the user. Due to the innovation of the integrated crown, each of the bridges are inclined at 3 degrees from each other. Thus, the view of the movement’s interior surface shows a cascading effect. 

Watch front Finely executed, innovative and complex decoration of the front face of the watch made of Carbone decorated with guilloché “Pointe du Risoux”.

Case • Dimensions: diameter: 44 mm, thickness: 12.65 mm • Asymmetric bassinet-shape design  • One side coated case back box sapphire • Case back with fine satin-finishing and hand polishing • 5 Bar waterproof construction with one gasket O-ring at the bezel and one Hytrel gasket on the back.

Crown Double patented system  • Made of 31 parts, this crown unlocks itself by pressing on it. It has 3 positions: neutral, time setting, and winding. It is built with 3 O-ring gaskets ensuring a strong protection against water and humidity. • This retractable crown protects it from shocks that is a common issue for watches with the crown on the edge of the case. It also improves the water-resistance, as the crown is less likely to move and let water in.  

Hands • Hours: conical and curved, dagger-shaped, in natural Titanium, chamfered, polished and blued by hand. • Minutes: conical and curved, dagger-shaped, in natural Titanium, chamfered, polished and blued by hand. • Power reserve: dagger-shaped, in natural Titanium, chamfered and polished by hand.

Watch-strap • Made of natural anti-allergy rubber. It is manufactured with different layers of hardness in the rubber in order to ensure rigidity and softness at the same time.

One of the aspect of the philosophy of D. Candaux is to match contemporary design with ancient and traditional watchmaking. Engineering is at the base of the development of the calibers and the most advanced technology is used. But when it comes to finishing, the brand is considered as one of the best in class. Some ancient techniques have been reinvented but also in terms of hand finish, D. Candaux has invented new patterns of decoration.

Côtes du Solliat Finest traditional watchmaking craft with hand chamfering hand polishing, flanks brushing and unique “Côtes du Solliat” effect on natural titanium Grade 5. Each single strip gives the subtle impression of being composed of three separate ones. 

Pointe du Risoux – DC6-Black Phantom front is made of Carbone decorated with engine-turned “Pointe du Risoux”. It recalls the patterns of the local Risoux fir tree forest that surrounds the D. Candaux atelier. It was created as a contemporary approach to antique guilloché designs.