Home
D.Candaux

1740 -The First 8

Case
Steel
Bracelet strap
Leather
Buckle
Pin buckle
Waterproofness
30 m
Size
ø 43 mm
Thickness
12.65 mm
Movement
Manual-winding mechanical
Power reserve: 72 h, 21'600 variations / hours
Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Power reserve, Tourbillon
Reference
1/8
Year
2017
Collection
1740 / Limited Edition to 8 exemplaires
Price excl.VAT
216'800 CHF
Description

Video

David Candaux, a skilled and independent watchmaker, presents the “1740 - The First 8”. This very first version of the “1740” embodies his personal vision of Fine Watchmaking. Its sober appearance pushes conventional boundaries through its refined design based on a contrast between symmetrical and asymmetrical lines. Numerous technical choices enhance this exceptional timepiece that is all executed with the greatest rigor and care.

David Candaux was born and raised in the Vallée de Joux, cradle of the traditional high-end Swiss watchmaking. Being the son and the grandson of master watchmakers, he naturally soaks up the immutable art of timekeeping craft. He was as much shaped by the nearby lake and forests as by the workbenches at which he started to stand at the age of 14 years old. After a brilliant career with several worldwide renowned fine watchmakers for more than 20 years, and after having consolidated his expertise and knowhow, he has chosen to share now his vision of 21st century Fine Watchmaking.

“The Heart and the Spirit”

The “1740” encapsulates David’s talent, his ideas and his artistic and technical sensitivity. Innovative a piece, it combines 3 patents and 8 design registrations. Named “1740” in memory of the year when the presence of a watchmaker was notified for the first time ever in the Vallée de Joux, this timepiece embodies the maxim “The Heart and the Spirit”. This maxim is indeed very important for David Candaux, being the key to creating freely. It is indeed only when the Heart and the Spirit meet together that the Horology Dream springs. The pleasure conveyed by a timepiece arises by the emotion it carries. Such an emotion is the result of the thorough work of the watchmaker.

Asymmetrical interplay

The design of the “1740 – The First 8” combines symmetrical and asymmetrical interplays, in the building of the case as well as in the mechanism, creating in the end a perfectly balanced harmony. The global aesthetic is thus unique, as well as ergonomic and functional. As a result, the watch face is inclined toward the bearer and optimises notably the comfort of the reading of the time.

D. Candaux – 1740: The First 8

David Candaux, skilled and independent watchmaker, presents the “1740 - The First 8”. This very first version of the 1740 embodies his personal vision of Fine Watchmaking. It pushes conventional boundaries through its sleek design, asymmetrical conception and technical specifications, all executed with the greatest rigour and care.

David Candaux was born and raised in the Vallée de Joux, a region renowned for its excellence in the traditional Swiss luxury and high-end watchmaking industry. Being the son and the grandson of master watchmakers, he naturally soaks up the timeless atmosphere of the timekeeping craft. He was as much shaped by the nearby lake and forests as by the workbenches at which he started to stand at the age of 14 years old. Over 20 years later, and after a brilliant career with several worldwide renowned fine watchmakers who allowed him to consolidate his expertise and knowhow, he has chosen to share his vision of 21st century Fine Watchmaking.

“The Heart and Spirit”

The 1740 encapsulates David’s talent, ideas and sensitivity. It combines 3 patents and 8 design registrations. Named after the year when the presence of a watchmaker was notified for the first time ever in the Vallée de Joux, this timepiece identity is coupled with the maxim “The Heart and Spirit” which, according to David Candaux, is the key to creating freely. If a timepiece is indeed meant to convey pleasure, it must have the power to bring us emotion. In this vein, research, reflection and hard work are essential. In essence, if the heart and spirit work in harmony, they can trigger a unique emotion and a little bit of magic.

Asymmetrical interplay

Asymmetrical interplay is at the core of the 1740 – The First 8’s design, from the casing to the mechanism, ultimately creating a perfectly harmonious and innovative piece. The watch face showcases the asymmetric design. The unusual face is raised at 12 o’clock and lowered at 6 o’clock, thus optimising the watch-bearer’s field of vision and making it easier to read the time. The luminous enamelled and hand-crafted surface is also easy on the eye.

Constant device and 5-second jumping  mechanism

From a purely graphical point of view, the general sequencing of indicators and functionalities follows a cross pattern. At the centre, the big second hand – made of gold and traditionally stamped – is coupled with a constant device, and it moves forward by 30 degrees every 5 seconds. This unusual mechanism combines several key ideas. Firstly, the use of a constant device. Located between the barrel and the flying tourbillon, it stores the energy injected in the regulator, thereby increasing the accuracy of the measurement. Secondly, jumps of 30 degrees mark clear pauses which allow the watchmaker to fine tune the chronometry. Thirdly, the use of a constant device ensures the movement has constant power. As soon as the power falls below a certain threshold, the constant device automatically stops, as in turn does the calibre. Thus, the 1740 – The First 8 possesses a so-called “chronometric” power reserve, since the precision is guaranteed as soon as the movement is active. Finally, the second hand pulsates rather than moving in the usual slightly jerky manner. The inwardly turned tip is a testament to the old high-precision chronometers. This distinctive and unique visual element gives the watch its own character whilst also evoking the ultra-precise regulators, or mother-timepieces, installed in watchmaking workshops. Their single second hand – located at the centre just as for the 1740 – The First 8 – indicated the time of reference necessary for the tuning of all the watches in the workshop.

“Compass rose” micro dial for the hour and minute indication

The hour and minute markers are locatedare indicated on a dial located on the right side of the watch face, usinThe hour and minute dial is in 18 carat grey gold covered with a layer ofg the traditional technique of “grand feu” enamelling. These inverted “syringe” hands are manually flame-blued and the white enamel of the 18 carat grey gold micro  dial is made using the traditional technique of “grand feu” enamelling. The black enamel inscription of the Rroman numerals and minute indexestimers are pad printed and then fire-enamelled. The four ““compass rose” compass points are made of 18 carat grey gold.

The main central background dial in 5N 18 -carat 5N rose gold is grained by hand.

As for the main flange, it is also made of 18 carat gold with satin-finishing and a layer of neutral black varnish.A plain black varnish protects the main flange in satin-finished gold.

The dagger-shaped hour and minute hands are in flame-blued 18 carat grey gold.

These inverted “syringe” hands are manually flame-blued and the white enamel of the 18 carat grey gold micro dial is made using the traditional technique of “grand feu” enamelling.

Big central second hand

From a purely graphical point of view, the general sequencing of indicators and complications follows a cross pattern.

At the centre, the big second hand – made of gold and traditionally stamped – is directly coupled with the going train. This direct connection guarantees a constant progression without having a gap to catch for the second hand.

This big central second hand allows a perfect reading of the elapsing time and refers to the old high-precision chronometers and to the Navy Commanders watches. The inwardly turned tip of the hand allows avoiding parallax errors and shows the care for all the conception details. Such a visual element emphasizes the character of the timepiece.

Power reserve indicator

The power reserve mechanism is also unique and patented. Two barrels in series, connected by a compact system, guarantee a very efficient space reduction. The mainspring winding is linked to the first barrel, whereas its letting down is measured on the second barrel, in order to guarantee the most accurate power reserve indication. The whole system is controlled by a miniature spherical differential gear. Then the indication is transmitted by three stones-contained mobiles which bring the same technical and aesthetical excellence as the one of the finishing train. Finally, a patented single cone system transmits the indication by vertical translation through a feeler-spindle, equipped with a sapphire runner, to an axis holding the power reserve hand. In order to guarantee an accurate reading, the axis holding the hand makes use of a spiral spring allowing catching up the gear train interplay, and thus offers a precise and constant reading of the power reserve.

Inclined bi-plan tourbillion

The flying tourbillon cage rotates on the left side of the watch face. Made of titanium, it is mounted on a ceramic ball bearing inclined at 3 degrees from the case. The balance inside the flying tourbillon cage is again inclined from the mobile base, this time by 30 degrees and it is thus aptly named a “bi-plan” flying tourbillon. It is constructed in such a way as to ensure a continual change in position of the cage and of the regulating organ, thus optimising its capacity to calculate the average of the disturbances (gravity or impacts) that could impact on its proper functioning. It completes a full revolution in 60 seconds and offers an identical amplitude for every position. The double barrel system provides a more efficient and constant energy supply.

Regulatin organ

The regulating organ has entirely been designed and created by David Candaux, which is quite a rare achievement in the watchmaking industry since most of the brands buy the regulating organs they use from specialized suppliers.

The balance wheel has a variable inertia. Such a variation is feasible thanks to four 18 carat gold screws that can be screwed in or out by the watchmakers. The modification of the inertia will allow indeed to either accelerate or slow down the balance wheel’s beat, and thus to regulate the timepiece. Besides these four screws regulating the inertia, the balance wheel also uses a load screw as a cube. Additionally, the aerodynamic profile of the balance wheel has been optimized so that it improves the quality factor. The balance wheel is coupled with a Breguet-type spiral, terminating in a Phillips curved tip. This latter has been developed to allow a perfectly concentric expansion of the spiral and to optimize thus its functioning in every different vertical position. Lastly, the spiral extremity is maintained by a stud specially developed for this timepiece in order to guarantee an ergonomic and reliable fixing.

Escapement

The escapement as also been fully developed and designed by David Candaux. Inspiration leads him to use old centrings from the Vallée de Joux. These old centrings are non-equidistant, unlike those for the contemporary industrially-produced escapements that are mainly equidistant. Such a non-equidistant geometry improves the escapement efficiency and, as a result, implies the construction of a refined and aesthetical long body for the pallets, leading to the fork and to different entrance and exit liftings in order to guarantee optimal impulses. The optimized geometry of the toothing of the balance wheel improves even more the global efficiency of the escapement.

A constant amplitude of 250 degrees due to its design, the Breguet-overcoil spring for a perfectly steady set-up, and the constant device. This balance ensures an optimised and precise movement.

An inclined calibre

The aesthetic and ergonomic designs based on asymmetrical proportions, particularly the dial tilt angle, haves in turn influenced the innovative and patent-protected conception of the movement. The technical imperatives linked to the secret and retractable crown mean that the entire gear train and bridges have been inclined at 3 degrees in relation to the plate. This reinterpretation of the standard principles of construction has impacted on the position of the bridges in relation to each other. Due to this variation, each bridge is inclined at 3 degrees from the watch case and is staggered in an alternate cascade effect (0.3mm) from the next bridge. Thus, the general surface is no longer flat and uniform, but shows a staircase profile. As a general result, the movement shows a unique three-dimensional perspective. Furthermore, this innovative construction accentuates the finishing and amplifies the reflection of light and light effects on the decorative pattern, especially the shininess of the “Côtes du Solliat”.

“Côtes du Solliat” is a new type of decoration elaborated by David Candaux. Wide and thus delicate to create, each band gives the subtle impression that it is made up of three different bands. The angles are all rounded by hand, which has made the creation of the 23 inner angles all the more complex, embodying the quintessence of the high-end watchmaking.

As a result of this change, each is inclined at 3 degrees from its neighbour. They therefore reveal a general surface which is no longer uniform but cascading, highlighting even better their finish and accentuating the reflection of light. The increased refraction of light also serves to showcase the “Côtes du Solliat”, a new type of decoration elaborated by David Candaux. Wide and thus delicate to make, each band gives the subtle impression that it is made up of three different bands. The angles are all rounded by hand, which has made the creation of the 23 “inner angles” all the more complex.

Titanium and steel plate and bridges

With the exception of the small steel bridge, allAll the fixed elements of the calibre (plate, bridges) are made of untreated titanium or in steel. Inalterable a material, the titanium that is used here has not been submitted to any surface treatment (like galvanic treatment), except for the fine watchmaking decorative treatments (polished angles, brushed or drawn flanks, circular graining, snailing, and “Côtes du Solliat”). , other than the additional polished and brushed decorations. The semi-brilliant with polished sinks rubies are held in gold bezels in order to vary the colour spectrum andfluidises the activity of the gears.

The bridges in steel are mirror-polished and have not been submitted to any galvanic treatment as well. The 18 carat gold settings have been set with semi-brilliant with polished sinks rubies before being set in steel. Such a delicate process is necessary to protect the rubies from the hardness of the steel and makes homage to the traditional fine watchmaking.workings. All the inscriptions are engraved by hand.

Wheels and pinions

The movement is made of 287 components which are all finished respecting the most demanding standards of the traditional high-end watchmaking.
Thus, the wheels comply with the highest quality requirements and are chamfered and rounded, bevelled, or circular-grained on both sides.
As for the pinions, they are polished on a wooden grinding wheel and with a groove just after the pivot. This ancestral technique ensures that the lubricating oil remains in place.

Engraved technical specifications

In order to ensure the complete continuity of the movement for the centuries to come, all the technical specifications required to update restore and service the calibre have been included engraved on the flank ofon the plate for the next generations. The specifications of the balanceregulating organ, its CGS number, its inertia, the lift angle and the quality indicator can be found engraved in relief on the fixed second wheel.

Ergonomic case

The 316L stainless steel case measures 43.5mm in diameter and 12.65mm in thickness. The asymmetric  upper glass is crafted from anti-reflective sapphire. The sapphire glass of the underside of the case is box-shaped and has a very complex contour. On the underside, the glass box-shaped sapphire back It is held in a metal frame with an olivette to ensure safe and easy access to the calibre.

The asymmetric lugs fittingly link the wrist-strap to the case. The hand-made watch strap is made of alligator leather and equipped with a steel pin buckle.

Chronometry certification

With 309 parts, the movement includes pinions polished on a wooden grinding wheel and with a groove just after the pivot. This ancestral technique ensures that the lubricating oil remains in place. Chronometry certified, it guarantees a power supply of 55 hours, indicated by a gauge at 12 o’clock, and which camshaft system is being patented.

Retractable sSecret crown

In order to preserve the harmonious design, there is no visible crown on the “1740 – The First 8”. By removing the crown from the edges of the case, David Candaux has solved one of the major aesthetic problems associated with wrist-watches: the visual unbalance.

The traditional crownIt has thus been replaced by an exclusive secret and retractable version counting no fewer than 31 parts. Positioned at 6 o’clock, it is activated by a simple pressure and showsaccording to three successive positions: neutral, reset, and winding. By removing the crown from the edges of the case, David Candaux has solved one of the major aesthetic problems associated with wrist-watches: the visual unbalance. This true engineering prowess is protected by a pending patent-protected.